The Rise of Agave in Asia
A New Frontier for Mezcal and Tequila
When traveling through Austin, you will inevitably find a bar with an impressive selection of top shelf spirits. During a recent visit by Levels for the FCSI Americas conference, we found ourselves delighting in the variety. While bourbon still reigns supreme in Texas, mezcal and tequila are becoming increasingly well-represented. Smoky, grassy, floral, fruity, vegital, herbaceous; the flavor profiles are diverse and complex.
Whether stirred into a mezcal negroni or served straight up, the popular spirits have gotten attention in the global market, with plenty of enthusiasts growing in Asia. Getting through the initial burn rewards you with imaginative pallets that represent the botanically rich terroir of Oaxaca, where the crops of agave, or maguey, are cultivated. For design lovers, bottles of Clase Azul, Del Maguey and Siete Misterios are almost too iconic not to have on display.
“Asia is about to experience an agave explosion”
Even with palpable interest, there are a number of obstacles that could prevent the growth of this import. Agave is notoriously slow to grow, reaching maturity after anywhere between 8 to 30 years. Wild agaves like tobalá, silvestre and tepeztate are losing their natural habitat to the more manufacturing-friendly varietals, azul and espadín. Family-owned farms are pressured to sell their entire yields to big name brands, resulting in homogenous blends. As growing demand in Asia will put further pressure on a sustainable supply, we must recognize the great value these exceptional spirits carry in order to protect their quality.
In Tokyo, a bartender pours a margarita rimmed with chilli salt at Bar Spicule
A Global Surge in Agave Spirits Consumption
Opening a mezcaleria in the heart of Hong Kong has certain challenges, but you never would have imagined given how busy COA gets. The only bar to ever win the coveted No. 1 spot three times on Asia’s 50 Best Bars list, their back bar stocks all the rare and the wonderful agave-based spirits that we saw across Austin. Historically, whiskey and cognac have dominated Asian markets, but recently more bars are giving mezcal and tequila the attention they deserve. Aficionados can appreciate rare varieties made with wild maguey, or those produced using artisanal or ancestral techniques. Even in Singapore, Tokyo, and Bangkok, we have seen tequila—particularly the premium expressions—gradually appearing on more cocktail menus.
Tequila has been on an astounding upswing globally, with consumption increasing by over 30% in just a few years. Similar increase has been observed with mezcal, a once-niche product whose sales have almost doubled in the last five years. In Texas, it was evident that they have become some of the most sought-after, premium spirits in the world. Brands like Clase Azul, with its hand-painted bottles, were a common sight on menus; it was clear that people were starting to appreciate the craftsmanship and history behind these drinks.
“Consumers in cities like Tokyo, Hong Kong, and Singapore are looking for authentic, artisanal products”
Asian consumers are also becoming more adventurous with their drinking choices. There is a growing appreciation for high-quality, artisanal spirits, and tequila and mezcal fit the need perfectly. Bars are starting to experiment with these spirits in innovative ways, pushing them beyond their traditional roles and showcasing their versatility in craft cocktails. The shift towards premiumization in Asia is a very promising trend.
Consumers in cities like Tokyo, Hong Kong, and Singapore are looking for authentic, artisanal products—spirits that have a story and heritage behind them. Mezcal provides precisely that, thanks to its rich cultural heritage and traditional production methods. Añejo and reposado tequilas in particular are becoming recognized in the same context as premium cognac or whiskey.
Tequila and mezcal forward cocktail menu at COA in Hong Kong, China
Slow Agriculture
Indigenous cultures described the form of slow agriculture needed for naturally cultivating agave “The way of Maguey”. Patience is required for agave production as it does not adapt quickly to change. Generally agave will only flower once, at the time of death, when its seeds are spread by one long protruding cacti-like quiotes. These are promptly chopped off to allow for the concentration of sugars that will be used to produce alcohol.
Blue weber, agave azul, has been the only agave legally approved for tequila production since 1974. For mezcal, several producers have resorted to genetic clones of the domesticated species, espadín. While wild varieties can take 25 to 30 years to mature, espadín can be raised in just 8 years. Their large, sword-like stalks are ideal for absorbing flavors from the soil, resulting in distinctive profiles.
“As growing demand in Asia will put further pressure on a sustainable supply, we must recognize the great value these exceptional spirits carry in order to protect their quality. ”
Mezcaleros slow-roast their agave for days after harvesting, laying them in underground pits heated by hot stones. The hearts, or piñas, are mashed with mallets, a mill or a large stone wheel called a tahona before the pressed liquid is transferred to oak barrels. Yeasts are then used to ferment the product and culture microorganisms before the distillation process begins in either clay or copper pots. Aging tequila imparts a richer flavor, this can take between two months and five years to create reposado and añejo classifications. Mexican law permits only distilleries that use traditional methods to be deemed artisanal or ancestral.
In Bangkok, the decor at El Santo incorporates luchadors into the design of the tequila forward bar
Craft & Commodity
Asia is about to experience an agave explosion. Bars like COA in Hong Kong and Cat Bite Club in Singapore are paving the way, but there’s still so much room for these spirits to grow across the region. Over the next few years, we will start seeing more dedicated mezcal bars and agave-based festivals in places like Shanghai, Tokyo, Bangkok, and Kuala Lumpur. To avoid manufacturing monotony, true agave-lovers should seek out premium quality products that not only taste incredible, but are sustainable.
We can start by sourcing from small-batch mezcaleros working in different communities. Since factors like soil type, topography and climate define the character produced by each mezcal, this provides the best range of flavors. Practices during production also differ from community to community, giving each bottle a unique heritage taste. Wild grown maguey should be especially coveted, prioritizing the protection of their natural habitats.
We have so many options of great agave spirits right now which is why we must choose to preserve this diversity. For those of us who have experienced the rich mezcal and tequila culture in places like Texas, we see the great potential to be had in Asia. So many nuanced flavors across the spectrum give cocktail drinkers so much variety to experience. Whether you are substituting the bourbon for a Oaxaca old fashioned or adding interest to your martini with a mezcal rinse, these spirits are meant to be appreciated. If you start to see more mezcal appearing on the top-shelf, remember to take your time to enjoy that which took so long to develop. Sip slowly, practice patience, like the way of maguey.
In Singapore, a bartender at the Cat Bite club serves cocktails made from agave-based spirits
LEVELS is a hospitality creative agency based in Kuala Lumpur.
We deliver holistic, end-to-end consultation, creativity, and execution that disrupts the ordinary to provide world-class hospitality solutions for our clients. Since 2020, we have launched over 75 hospitality projects across three continents. From initial market research, to concept development, we make recommendations using a hospitality lens on current trends, competitive landscape and industry trajectory.
